Long before Dubai wakes, out where the city gives way to open desert, one of the Emirates’ oldest sports is already under way. At the Al Marmoom Camel Racing Track, herds of racing camels thunder down a desert straight at speeds that seem impossible for an animal built like a rocking horse, tiny robot jockeys on their backs and a chorus of owners following alongside in 4x4s. It is thrilling, surreal and deeply rooted in Bedouin heritage — and in the cool season, visitors are welcome to come and watch the dawn.
A Heritage Sport, Run at Dawn
Camel racing is woven into Emirati life: for centuries, camels were transport, wealth and survival in the desert, and racing them was both sport and celebration, traditionally staged at festivals and weddings. Today’s organised sport preserves that spirit with professional stables, serious prize money and prestige — winning camels are valuable athletes, bred and trained like racehorses, and a champion’s bloodline is a matter of regional pride.
The season traditionally runs through the cooler months, broadly from autumn into spring, when early mornings are kind to animals and spectators alike. Racing happens at dawn for good reason: camels run best in the cool, and meetings typically start early — often in the first light of the day, with further races sometimes held later in the day during major festivals. The season builds towards prestigious festival meetings, including events staged around the Al Marmoom Heritage Village area. Because schedules flex with weather and festival calendars, confirm specific race days and timings locally before making the trip — this is a working sporting venue, not a theme park with a timetable.
The Robot Jockeys
The question every first-time visitor asks is about the small figures on the camels’ backs. Since the early 2000s, the UAE has used robot jockeys — lightweight mechanical riders, dressed in racing silks, that replaced child jockeys entirely. The robots are controlled remotely by the owners driving alongside the track, and through a speaker they can even relay the sound of the owner’s voice urging the camel on, with a small whip mechanism to match. It sounds like science fiction; at dawn, in a cloud of desert dust, it simply looks like Al Marmoom.
The parallel track is half the spectacle: a rolling convoy of white 4x4s keeping pace with the herd, horns sounding, owners shouting encouragement, commentators calling the race. Spectators in the grandstand get the full theatre of it — the start, the long gallop, and the sudden silence of the desert between races.
What a Morning at the Track Looks Like
Al Marmoom’s track lies on Al Ain Road (E66), out past Dubailand and the Al Lesaily area — roughly forty minutes from central Dubai, an easy pre-dawn drive on empty roads. The facility has grandstand seating overlooking the track, and attending as a spectator is traditionally free and unfussy: you park, you climb the stand, you watch. Facilities are functional rather than luxurious, so bring your own coffee and something warm for the pre-sunrise chill in midwinter, and do not expect the polished hospitality of Meydan — the charm here is authenticity.
Plan the morning around light and patience. Arrive before the scheduled start to feel the place wake up: trainers leading camels, grooms preparing animals, the desert sky shifting colour. Between races there are gaps for warming up the next field, which are made for photographs of camels silhouetted against the sunrise. A typical visit lasts a couple of hours and pairs naturally with a slow drive back via the Al Marmoom desert or a stop at the nearby heritage and conservation areas.
How to Visit Respectfully
A few courtesies matter. This is an Emirati cultural heartland event: dress modestly and warmly, ask before photographing people (photographing the camels and racing is generally what everyone is there for), and keep to the spectator areas — the stables and training grounds are working yards, not petting zoos. Children are welcome and usually mesmerised, but keep them close in car park and trackside areas where vehicles and animals move constantly.
Above all, set the alarm. Everything about Al Marmoom rewards the early: the light, the cool, the racing, the quiet drive home against the morning traffic. Check locally for the current season’s race days before you go, charge your camera, and give yourself the most authentically Emirati sporting morning Dubai offers — no ticket, no fanfare, just the desert, the dawn and the thunder of the herd.
